4 Days in Phnom Penh: Riverside Cafés, Massages & Affordable Luxury | 11-Day Vietnam and Cambodia Itinerary (Part 4)
- Mario Ng
- 6 minutes ago
- 35 min read
🇰🇭From Nha Trang to Phnom Penh: A Scenic Farewell Across Borders (Days 8 to 11)
🗓️ Day 8 (7 November 2024): From Nha Trang to Phnom Penh — Cloud Chasing, Coffee Naps & A Passport Scare
Early Morning Departure from Nha Trang: A Smooth Domestic Flight to Saigon
Light breakfast, quiet airport vibes, and a smooth ride over southern skies
After some 4 hours of sleep, it was time to wake up. 6 am on a beautiful Thursday morning! Time to grab a shower, dress up, and check out! Thankfully, the weather looked fine this morning, and we should have a smooth ride to the airport. Traffic was smooth, perhaps due to the early morning timing, and we arrived in time to check in our luggage. The airport was very empty and there was no queue when we dropped our luggage at the check-in counter.
✈️ Leg 3, Flight 1: Nha Trang → Ho Chi Minh City
Date: 7 November 2024 ~ Airline: Vietnam Airlines ~ Flight No.: VN1341 ~ Departure: 8:40 AM ~ Arrival: 9:50 AM ~ Duration: 1 hour 10 minutes
After that was done, we grabbed a bite at one of the eateries at the airport. They were already open early in the morning, and we had the luxury of choosing what to eat. Obviously, my partner got a local meal in a bowl of hot soup on a humid morning, while I got myself a croissant and a hot cup of Americano at a neighbouring store.
There was plenty of time before boarding, so it was a good time to chat and have an in-depth conversation. After entering the transit area, we realised that there were quite a lot of people in the airside already. I guess the Vietnamese do not really like to loiter around too much. They will head straight to the transit area to wait for the plane immediately after checking in. Now I know!
Boarding was uneventful, and unlike the past few times, we got to board the plane straight from the terminal’s aerobridge this time, thus ensuring we were cooled by air conditioning at all times. The flight itself was very smooth, and the close proximity between Nha Trang and Ho Chi Minh City meant that it was a really short flight. Within less than an hour, our plane had touched down in Saigon. There was no food served, but we each got a bottle of water courtesy of Aquafina, produced by Pepsi. As usual, the skies were beautiful, and I managed to take some shots of the amazing cloud formations and other cities that we flew past. The highlight was probably after we landed, though. The plane parked at a remote bay, and a bus came to pick us up. I grabbed the opportunity to capture cool shots of other planes, including one from Bamboo Airways, a UPS Boeing 747, and a DHL-air Hong Kong cargo plane. All very cool stuff. As it was an internal flight, there was no immigration involved, so once we entered the domestic terminal, we were free to collect our luggage, and we could then leave the airport.
Killing Time in Ho Chi Minh City: A Cosy Nap at Chidori Coffee in Bed
The perfect airport layover solution just 5 minutes from Tan Son Nhat
Now, we left the airport around 10.45 am, but our next flight to Phnom Penh, which was originally scheduled to take off at 2.35 pm, was now delayed to around 4.30 pm. That meant we now have even more time to kill. We stopped for a while to discuss what we should do next.
We could drop our luggage at the airport for a fee, head out to the city for a meal, perhaps a massage, and return to the airport. Bear in mind that the usual traffic jams from the airport to the city will cause further delays as well, thus minimising the actual time we have to spend in the city.
Loiter around the airport before being allowed to check in a few hours later.
Finally, we arrived at option C. Option C was to take a nap at a nearby Chidori branch! Chidori Coffee in Bed is a novel concept in Ho Chi Minh City that aims to blend work and rest. Customers get to choose the type of short-term accommodation at a branch. Options include from the least private “cafe space” to the most private “Private Room”. Different branches have different options, but most should consist of at least a “cafe space” and a “Coffee in Bed”, which is a private mini room, similar to capsule accommodations found in Japan.
Customers can enjoy their time here, doing what they need to, whether it is a well-deserved nap, focusing on their work, or a little bit of both. There is one branch located ideally near Tan Son Nhat International Airport, which is perfect for jet-lagged and tired travellers. If you are feeling peckish or downright hungry, there is a cafe so you can get all the caffeine and energy you require.
Our package included one “Coffee in Bed” mini room and two beverages of our choice. When we first entered the Chidori branch, the staff helped to take our luggage and put it in a safe space while we decided what beverages to order. Although the cake slices were tempting, we ultimately decided against them as we truly needed a proper nap. After ordering a boba with pearls and a hot Americano (no prizes for guessing who had which drink!), we were led to our mini room for 4 hours!
The space was very cosy and each room’s lighting was very warm and welcoming. There is a small workspace at the end of the bed for guests to do their work if needed. There are wall plugs located to the side so you can charge your laptop or mobile phone if required. Wifi is provided, and if you need any assistance, you can push the button to request help. In need of a sudden pick-me-up? Scan the QR code to check out the menu before ordering a meal. If you need to take a shower, you are in for a treat. At the branch we were in, there was a bathroom that had a standing shower. This is perfect for weary travellers who need a shower to perk up. We did not require one just yet, as the nap sufficed then. We were, however, thankful that this option was available to us.
After spending a few minutes in awe of this cool concept, our drinks were brought to us. The drinks were delicious, and as a sign of how tired I was, the caffeine was no match for the zzz monster, and I took a 1.5-hour undisturbed nap. It was exactly what I needed as I felt so refreshed after the nap. I was ready for our final leg of our epic trip!
We booked a Grab that took us back to the airport. All in all, the trip lasted for less than 5 minutes. The wait for the Grab was probably longer than the time it took to bring us to the airport. This is how close the branch is to the airport! Make sure you bookmark this place if you have a long layover and are too tired to explore the city.
Name of branch: Chidori Coffee in Bed Lam Son
Google Maps: Chidori Coffee in Bed® Lam Son
Website: chidori.vn
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/chidori.vn
Opening hours: 8 am to 11 pm daily
Airport Eats and Plane-Spotting: Lunch at Big Bowl, Lounge Pitstop, and Pre-Flight Rituals
Lounge letdowns, pho redemption, and a final Vietnamese feast
After arriving at the airport and checking in successfully, it was time to hunt for food! As Priority Pass members, thanks to some credit cards, we have access to airport lounges, although we never really use them, due to the variety of food options available in airports. Strangely, I always preferred to hunt for nice food in airports rather than relaxing in a lounge. Obviously, Changi Airport’s food options are aplenty, and one can see why one might prefer to enjoy paid food here.
Having tried basically every food option in the transit area of Tan Son Nhat Airport’s international terminal, we decided in an impromptu manner to try the lounge out. We checked and found that Rose Business Lounge is part of the Priority Pass Network at the International Terminal. Located near gates 8 to 9, it is on the extreme left side of the terminal. We went there, and there was already a queue to get it. Of course, this is generally expected of Priority Pass lounges. Unfortunately, the food was not good. We tried some grilled chicken meat and bread, but it was not too appetising. We hung out for a short while doing some plane-spotting, as this was admittedly a very good place to planespot. After a while, my partner reminded me of her hunger pangs, and we promptly left to hunt for some food!
We walked, no, briskwalked, to Big Bowl, located on the upper floor of the terminal. Over there, there are other food options, including a Burger King. We each got a bowl of beef pho and opted for an additional Lotus Longan Sweet Soup as a dessert.
After the long nap and less-than-satisfactory lunch, we figured we should reward ourselves with something sweet. If you are famished and in need of some comfort food, Big Bowl will do it for you. Considering it is located in an airport, the food is pretty good, and many travellers head here to grab their final Vietnamese meal before flying back. As frequent travellers to Ho Chi Minh City, we head here quite often to grab a bite before flying home. Because of its location facing the runway, Big Bowl and the food court are actually one of the best places to do plane-spotting at this airport. Many travellers try to find one of the window seats to grab the best views in the house. I managed to find some time to do plane-spotting, and thankfully, did not annoy anyone around me.
HCMC to Phnom Penh on Qatar Airways: A Short Flight with Big Skies
Gorgeous views, sleepy seats, and a warm Cambodian welcome
Soon, our plane touched down in Ho Chi Minh City, all the way from Doha, Qatar. While unloading the passengers heading to Saigon, the rest of us prepared to board the plane for its onward journey to Phnom Penh. At around 4.45 pm local time, we finally boarded the aircraft destined for Cambodia.
✈️ Leg 3, Flight 2: Ho Chi Minh City → Phnom Penh
Date: 7 November 2024 ~ Airline: Qatar Airways ~ Flight No.: QR970 ~ Departure: 2:35 PM ~ Arrival: 3:25 PM ~ Duration: 50 minutes
As the flight was so short, timed at only 50 minutes, there was no food on board. However, the flight attendants walked around the plane before takeoff to offer everyone a beverage. There were others around us who felt thirstier and opted for two drinks instead. As you wish, I guess.
The flight was smooth, and even though the plane did not fly too high, it was still high enough to do some cloud surfing. Evening was setting in, and it painted a very beautiful picture in the sky. Our location just in front of the gigantic engines added further beauty, I believe, to those pictures. While my partner was sleeping away, even before we took off, I was busy snapping photos of the skies and the conditions outside the plane. Before we knew it, we had touched down in Phnom Penh. Welcome to Cambodia!
Passport Panic in Phnom Penh: A Frantic Search and a Heartwarming Rescue
Lost passport scare met with Cambodian kindness and teamwork
While passing through immigration, I was quite surprised to see a crowd. I was last here almost ten years ago, and the airport seems to be much more crowded now with lots more tourists. That is a good thing, and I am sure they will enjoy Phnom Penh. I myself am excited to see the changes the city must have gone through!
At the immigration area before leaving the airport, there is a kiosk where you can book a taxi to your accommodation. It is fuss-free, and the fare is paid via credit card. That means you will not need to haggle with the taxi driver or fear getting charged exorbitant fares. This is something new, and we decided to try it out! We keyed in our destination, selected the type of ride (taxi or rickshaw), made payment, and collected the ticket! Once we were at the taxi area, we handed the ticket to a staff member at the waiting area, and they soon got a cab for us. Once we were in the taxi, we could relax all the way to the hotel!
After a long traffic jam that spanned kilometres, we finally reached the hotel. Exhausted by this point, we were thankful to have arrived at such a beautiful hotel. We checked in, and it was then that we realised one of our passports was missing. This has never occurred before in any of our travels, and it was a rude shock!
We searched all our bags, and we could not find it at all. The fantastic staff at TRIBE Phnom Penh Post Office Square were extremely helpful, suggesting options for us and helping to contact the airport staff to see if they could somehow reach the taxi driver, as we believed we had left our passport in his car.
With nothing we could do, we headed upstairs to our room to take a break first, while thinking about what else we could do. After a short rest and getting recharged, we decided that the best thing to do was to head back to the airport. We could ask the airport staff, check the Lost and Found counter, and hope that we could somehow identify the driver and hope he has our passport. We booked a Grab to head back to the airport, encountered another massive traffic jam, before finally arriving.
We ran to the Lost and Found counter at the departure lounge, only to find it closed, and left disappointed. I then walked around trying to locate a manned counter. Thankfully, I found one at the Arrivals lounge, and I immediately shared our issue. The lady was very nice, but unfortunately, she mentioned that there were no reports of any lost passports that day. Crestfallen, we decided to try asking the staff at the taxi pickup points and hope that they could somehow help us. We found a staff member, and I started sharing with him how we lost a passport. They were honestly all so helpful and kind. Immediately, they started asking if we could remember the type of car, the colour of the car, and any unique features of the driver. After explaining, they somehow figured out who the driver should be. They got to work immediately, and he reassured us, saying that they have a common group chat and they can easily mobilise the drivers to search for any lost items quickly. Our hopes picked up, and we sat there waiting while he continuously assured us that they were trying to get in touch with the driver and that he would let us know soon.
After less than 10 minutes, we were blessed with the best news. They found the driver, and he confirmed that he had found our passport in his car! Thank God!!! This was the best news, and we were so thankful for all of them! The staff mentioned that he was already back home, and it will take a little while before he will reach the airport to return the passport. We were so happy and grateful for them. Perhaps due to the adrenaline rush we experienced over the past couple of hours, we started feeling hungry. We headed to the Burger King just beside the taxi counters to grab a quick bite while waiting for the taxi driver. Soon, he arrived, and he immediately passed us the passport to check. Truly, truly, thank God! The passport was all good, and we were so grateful. The same taxi driver then sent us back to the hotel again, and this time, we made sure to check the back seats and floorboard before leaving the car. Phew! We saw the staff at the check-in counters, and we shared with them the great news. They were equally happy to hear we found our passports, and we shared what we did at the airport.
We were truly extremely thankful that we met with nothing but kind souls from the time we touched down in Phnom Penh. Even from the first time I visited Cambodia, I have always been touched by the kind hospitality that Cambodians show. Their generosity always humbles me, and this trip cemented my impressions of the kind and gracious people of Cambodia. Thank God for guiding us towards kind and generous people during our trip to this lovely country!
First Impressions of TRIBE Phnom Penh: Rooftop Dining and Warm Hospitality
Late-night salads, city views, and a peaceful end to a dramatic day
Feeling famished and tired at the same time, we decided to have a quick meal at the hotel’s rooftop restaurant, hoping we were in time for the restaurant’s last call for food orders. Similar to our experience at the airport, the staff shared that the kitchen was actually closed, but they could provide some options that could be prepared quickly. Honestly, nothing but kindness and graciousness. We ordered a Chicken Caesar Salad and a Smoked Duck Salad, with some mocktails to wash them down. The staff provided some complimentary pastries, and we were then given some privacy to rest and admire the city from the rooftop while they prepared our food.
The food, as expected, was delicious, and I especially enjoyed the bread, probably because I am such a fan of bread. The mocktails were refreshing and completely quenched our thirst. What a night! As we were the last customers, we did not want to overstay our welcome, and made payment once we finished our food. What a start to our trip to Cambodia! And what a welcome by the kind people of Cambodia!
Obviously, we slept soundly like babies that night, and we had one of the best sleeps throughout that trip to Vietnam and Cambodia!
🗓️ Day 9 (8 November 2024): Exploring Phnom Penh — Kind Strangers, Khmer Flavours & Rooftop Fireworks
A Slow Start in Phnom Penh: Skipping Breakfast for a Late Lunch
Starting the day relaxed with plans for a memorable meal at Malis Restaurant
We woke up rather late the next day, basically skipping breakfast and threatening to skip lunch as well. We took our time to laze in bed, relax, before deciding to head for a later-than-usual lunch. I had fond memories of having my meals at Malis Restaurant, and this would be the place I was bringing my partner for her first proper meal in the city! We booked a rickshaw via Grab, and it soon arrived. Gone were the days when I had to haggle during a rickshaw ride. It was all done digitally now, and I must say this is a great step forward for the country. With everything done via the app, tourists would be more confident to visit the country, and as a result, there would be higher tourism numbers. Hopefully, the tourism receipts will boost the local economy and bring greater benefits for the country.
Classic Khmer Cuisine at Malis Restaurant: A Feast of Local Flavours
Amok Fish, Beef Lok Lak, and Banana Blossom Salad in an elegant setting
After arriving at the restaurant, we were led to an air-conditioned area. As I walked into the room, I remembered having breakfast at the other side of the restaurant the last time I was here. I had enjoyed a simple bowl of their Kuy Teav Malis, which is their signature pork and prawn noodle soup. I also had a side of croissant to go with the noodle soup. Strange combination, but it worked well. I still remember it till now. Good times!
Back to our lunch. As usual, we were too ambitious and over-ordered. We decided to start with a Banana Blossom Salad with Chicken, and got the Bamboo Shoots and Smoked Fish Soup. The staff very kindly proposed serving the soup in two small bowls so that we could each have our own portion. We gratefully agreed. For proteins, we had to have their Amok Fish. It is basically one of Cambodia’s national dishes, and it is a must-have for every visitor to this country. It is a Khmer-style steamed fish curry, although the curry itself is just ever so slightly and should not deter people who cannot take spice. We got a fourth, final dish of Beef Lok Lak. It is a beef dish that is coated in a pepper sauce. For the uninitiated, the pepper taste can be a little spicy. Tread carefully!
We took our time to enjoy all four dishes, and everything was delicious. Of course, my favourite was the Amok Fish, which tasted delicious, just like how I remembered it. The soup was a welcoming, clean bowl of goodness, and it was a great way to open up our appetites. As a Vietnamese, she loves salads, and the Banana Blossom Salad with Chicken hit the spot. It tasted a little like home, and it was a good salad to enjoy. The Beef Lok Lok was delicious, and we could taste the freshness of the beef. The gravy that covered the beef was yummy and made an excellent sauce for our rice. Easily, I could have finished the entire plate of rice with just the sauce. And finally, we had the sunny-side-up as a dessert, sort of, to complete the rice. Everything was simply delicious. By the time we finished our lunch, we were stuffed. The food was so good, and the standards remained as high as I remembered. The next time I am back in Cambodia, I will be back here again!
Name of restaurant: Malis Phnom Penh
Google Maps: Malis (Norodom Boulevard)
Website: https://malis.thalias.com.kh/
Opening hours: 6.30 am to 10.30 pm daily
Coffee Near the Palace: Al-Fresco Brews at H2O Coffee
Fresh air, strong coffee, and tips for handling cash-only spots in Phnom Penh
After such a sumptuous meal, it was time to get some caffeine. We found a great cafe near the Palace, and we booked a Grab there. H2O Coffee is an al-fresco style cafe, which means there is lots of fresh air to breathe in as you enjoy your coffee. We had no issue and found a great spot to relax as we sipped our coffee. The fans were great for ventilation, and we felt cool in the shade even though there was no air-conditioning. Do take note, though, that the cafe accepts cash only. Hence, remember to exchange some cash if you are heading here for a coffee!
Name of cafe: H2O Coffee
Google Maps: H2O COFFEE
Instagram: @enjoyh2occc
Shopping for a Cause: Local Gifts from Senteurs d'Angkor
Supporting Cambodian women through handcrafted beauty and spice products
We headed to Senteurs d'Angkor next, which was just one street away. Senteurs d'Angkor is a local brand founded in 1999, specialising in local crafts. It employs many locals, providing good working conditions, equal opportunity, and fair wages. Based on its website, more than 80% of its employees are women, which is a testament to the organisation. It also sources its raw materials locally, which further boosts the economy. All these act as one huge multiple effect to boost the local economy and bring meaningful employment to the communities that it serves. I first discovered Senteurs d'Angkor when I travelled to Cambodia for the first time back in 2013. Ever since, I have checked on the organisation periodically and am so happy to see that it has grown from strength to strength. It is famous for its natural cosmetics, essential oils, and local spices. A favourite among tourists is the Kampot pepper, which is deadly. Travellers can also opt for milder options like honey, coffee, and tea. The honey is stated to be 100% pure Cambodian wild honey that is harvested from the foot of the Kulen mountain, near Siem Reap.
If you are ever in Siem Reap, do be sure to check out their workshop, which is free for travellers to visit. I managed to check it out during a trip to Siem Reap, and I was amazed by the different products the staff were making. It was cool. The products in the Phnom Penh store were all shipped here from Siem Reap after production was completed. Thus, while you enjoy doing a little shopping at its Phnom Penh store, make sure to put a bookmark to visit the workshop the next time you are in Siem Reap!
Name of store: Sentuers d’Angkor (Phnom Penh)
Google Maps: Senteurs d'Angkor (Phnom Penh)
Website: https://senteursdangkor.com/
Instagram: @senteursdangkor
Opening hours: 8 am to 7 pm daily
Social Impact at F3: Hair Washes, T-Shirts, and Ethical Experiences
Discovering FriendsFutureFactory and contributing to local community empowerment
After doing our shopping, we took a short walk to F3, also known as FriendsFutureFactory. Located in this complex is a huge social enterprise that brings lots of employment and opportunities to locals. It was originally set up by Friends-International, a social enterprise that seeks to help the less fortunate around the world. It has been present in Cambodia since 1994 and has since expanded to other countries. In Cambodia, it has set up restaurants to provide locals with useful skills. They will also have useful employment that will help them and their families. In Cambodia, they run two restaurants, Romdeng and Friends the Restaurant. At F3, Friends the Restaurant is located there, while Romdeng Restaurant is located in another part of the city.
During our time at F3, we found a shop selling clothes (I managed to buy a suitable T-shirt here), while there was a store offering massages. I also saw a hair salon, and my partner thought of getting a hair wash. It was good training for the staff, and my partner could also pamper herself. Everything was done very professionally, with a supervisor overseeing the entire process to make sure that the hairwash was completed correctly and up to their standards. We felt very assured under the supervisor’s oversight. In the end, everything turned out great, and we hope it was a great learning experience for the staff! Somehow, we felt that it would not be our last time here, and we were right!
Name of store: F3
Google Maps: F³
Opening hours: 9 am to 9 pm (Tuesdays to Sundays); Closed on Mondays
Golden Hour from the Hotel: Sunset Views and Afternoon Naps
A perfect mix of rest and relaxation with scenic views from TRIBE Phnom Penh
As the sun was setting, we decided to head back to the hotel for a rest, especially as the weather was extremely humid and we were perspiring profusely. The skies looked beautiful from our hotel, and we saw the skies slowly turn orange as we took pictures of the vicinity. Beautiful. As always, my partner felt sleepy after relaxing on the sofa and promptly dozed off on my lap. I was re-watching Suits during that time, and I managed to catch a few episodes while she comfortably napped.
Strolling Along Sisowath Quay and Phnom Penh Night Market
Exploring the riverside vibes, souvenirs, and night market scenes before dinner
Nightfall came, and still not feeling hungry yet, we decided to walk around the city to explore. TRIBE Phnom Penh Post Office Square is located at Sisowath Quay and is one of the city’s most popular hangouts. Plenty of restaurants and eateries line the quay, and it is always crowded at night. We walked through Phnom Penh Night Market and checked out some of the items they were selling, before heading back towards the hotel. My partner started feeling hungry after the short walk, and it was time for dinner!
Steak Night at KoKo Steakhouse: Premium Cuts with Kampot Pepper
Ribeye, sirloin, and an irresistible Crepes Suzette at a serious steak spot
We chanced upon KoKo Steakhouse during our check-in at TRIBE Phnom Penh Post Office Square and found that it is a steakhouse located within the hotel. It would be great to have a meal here, it seems! While not a hotel-run restaurant, it looks like a serious steakhouse that we had to check out. And so, on our second night in Phnom Penh, it was steak night. We arrived without any reservations on a Friday night and thankfully, they were able to accommodate us.
We started our dinner with two pieces of bone marrow and Josper-grilled Hokkaido scallops. Complimentary bread and chips with dips were provided as well. The lightly-grilled bread and chips were great starters and opened up our appetites. The bone marrow was good, and it was soon wiped out. Next up were the scallops. It was a similar experience, and we ate them up quickly. So far, so good!
Our main courses soon arrived. My partner had the 250g Ribeye steak while I had the 250g Sirloin steak with Kampot Pepper sauce. So far, we have not had a chance to enjoy Cambodia’s famous Kampot pepper, and what better way than to try it on one of my favourite dishes! The sauce was delicious and went perfectly with the Sirloin steak. 250g of steak was just the right amount, as we had so much other food to enjoy.
Finally, we had to have dessert. I decided spontaneously to order one serving of the Crepes Suzette to share, even as my partner protested. Too late, as I ordered it and the waiter headed to the kitchen to place the order! It was delicious and had the right balance between the sweetness of the salted caramel ice cream and the citrus taste of the orange. It was a great way to end our evening in Phnom Penh as we had such a wonderful dinner right at home! Two thumbs up for KoKo Steakhouse!
Name of restaurant: KoKo Steakhouse
Google Maps: KoKo Steakhouse
Instagram: @koko.steakhouse
Opening hours: 11 am to 10 pm daily
Ending the Day Right: Late-Night Coffee at TRIBE’s 24-Hour Lounge
Hot drinks, quiet conversation, and winding down after a delicious day in Phnom Penh
While we finished dinner around 10.30 pm, there were still people in the steakhouse. I guess Cambodians are night owls, much like me! Even though we headed back to the hotel quite late, we were not too sleepy yet. Of course, my partner would not be as she enjoyed such a wonderful nap on my lap. And so, we decided to have a late-night coffee at the hotel’s 24-hour lounge, TRIBE Express, located on the 4th floor. We had a cup of hot Americano and an iced Latte while we chatted the night away, just enjoying each other’s company.
🗓️ Day 10 (9 November 2024): From Street Cafés to Sunset Massages — A Perfect Penultimate Day
A Tasty Start at Romdeng: Home-Style Khmer Food Done Right
Delicious Fish Amok, grilled meats, and soup in one of Phnom Penh’s most beloved restaurants
We had a late start to our final full day in Phnom Penh, waking up only around lunch time, which was, of course, expected since we had such a late night the previous day. Oh well. We took a shower, got dressed, and headed out for our first meal of the day at 2 pm in the afternoon. Off we went to Romdeng Restaurant, one of Phnom Penh’s most popular restaurants, well-loved by locals and tourists alike! Since my last visit, it has moved to a new location, and I was actually trying to remember if we were at a different restaurant when we stepped off the Grab Tuk Tuk.
Learning our lesson after countless tries, we attempted to order less this time. We got 2 portions of Fish Amok, grilled chicken, grilled pork ribs, and a Fish Soup with Bamboo Shoot. The portions turned out to be perfect. The Fish Amok was my favourite dish, of course, and they can do no wrong with this dish. I finished up my portion in no time. Both the grilled chicken and grilled pork ribs were delicious, tasting a little sweet from the marinated sauce. They were simple dishes that felt like a home-cooked meal, and perhaps it was what we were craving after so long away from home. It was pretty much home-cooked food at Romdeng Restaurant, and that was just the way we liked it. My partner loves soup, and the Fish Soup with Bamboo Shoot was yummy. Admittedly, it was an acquired taste, and I did not exactly love it, but I enjoyed the fish that came with the soup. My partner enjoyed the soup a lot, and I guess it turned out to be a great option. Food is priced very affordably here, and they accept both cash and cashless options. My partner mentioned a few times that this was her favourite restaurant in Phnom Penh, and I agree with her opinion. The food is good, priced affordably, and helps the local economy. It is a win-win-win for everyone. Make sure you head here for a meal!
Name of eatery: Romdeng Restaurant
Google Maps: ភោជនីយដ្ឋាន រំដេង - Romdeng Restaurant
Instagram: @romdeng_restaurant_
Opening hours: 7 am to 9 pm daily
Familiar Comfort at Starbucks Reserve Phnom Penh
Sipping coffee, swapping stories, and meeting a former Singapore-based educator
After such a sumptuous meal, we surely deserved a proper cup of coffee. And so we went to a Starbucks Reserve! I still remember my previous visits to Cambodia. Starbucks was quite a rarity in the city, and there were only a few outlets around. Now, multiple outlets are opening up, including the city’s flagship Starbucks Reserve store. We headed there to enjoy a nice cup of coffee enjoy the familiar Starbucks surroundings that felt almost like home. While there, I chanced upon a resident who happened to be an educator. It turned out that he spent some time in Singapore teaching as well, and he has since moved on to teach in Phnom Penh. What a small world! He shared his time in Singapore with me, including his memories of Tiong Bahru Bakery and Somerset 313. He was gracious, and it was great having a chat with him.
Name of cafe: Starbucks Reserve BKK Flagship Store
Google Maps: Starbucks Reserve BKK Flagship Store
Opening hours: 6.30 am to 9 pm daily
A Fiery Walk to Independence Monument
Braving the Cambodian heat for a close-up view of Phnom Penh’s iconic landmark
Against all logic, we decided to stroll down the streets to check out the Independence Monument. Clearly, we underestimated the Sun’s power, and we were soon perspiring. Nevertheless, we pressed on and were quite in awe of this magnificent monument. It also happens to be situated in the middle of a roundabout, so you do get nice angles of the structure from different vantage points. It was very beautiful.
Hair Wash & Massage at F3: Affordable Indulgence
A rejuvenating experience at FriendsFutureFactory with professional training and care
After some time in the hot sun without shelter, we quickly booked a Grab TukTuk to get us out of the sun! Having perspired in the hot sun, I figured it was my turn to get a nice hairwash. My partner decided to have an arm massage, so we could both pamper ourselves at the same time. We headed back to F3 and spent a nice hour there! The hairwash experience was quite fun, as the staff really put in a lot of effort to wash my hair properly, ensuring that every inch of my hair was thoroughly scrubbed and sufficient shampoo was placed on my hair to remove all the dust and perspiration I had accumulated. It was a very enjoyable experience and I highly recommend it! My partner also sang praises about her massage, and it was a very relaxing time while the staff focused all their energy on giving my partner the best massage.
Ethical Shopping at KABAS Concept Store
Locally made t-shirts, handmade goods, and meaningful souvenirs near the National Museum
After some massage therapy, it was time for another type of therapy, shopping. We went to KABAS Concept Store, which is located just across the street from the Royal University of Fine Arts, located beside the National Museum of Cambodia. It is a souvenir store that sells a variety of locally made products. T-shirts are probably the most popular item in the store, which was indeed what I bought. The quality of the T-shirt was good, and it remains one of my favourite go-to tops whenever I head out. There are plenty of designs, and I had to exercise some restraint to stop myself from buying more. There are also other lovely gifts for sale, including stationery, scarves, jewellery, and spices.
Name of store: KABAS Concept Store
Google Maps: KABAS CONCEPT STORE
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/kabas.khmer
Instagram: @kabas_concept_store
Opening hours: 9 am to 8 pm daily
Cooling Down at The Museum Cafe
Hydrating with a fruit smoothie and a hot Americano after a warm afternoon stroll
After getting my T-shirt and feeling happy, it was time for a drink. We walked across the street to The Museum Cafe to get a well-needed refreshment. The weather was exceptionally warm that day, and it was essential that we stay hydrated. The hot Americano and fruit smoothie did wonders for our energy levels.
Name of cafe: The Museum Cafe
Google Maps: The Museum Café
Opening hours: 7 am to 5 pm daily
Rooftop Sunset & Fireworks: Phnom Penh on Independence Day
Guacamole, fruit platters, and a front-row seat to Cambodia’s dazzling celebrations
We had the rest of our evening planned out beforehand, and we would first head back to the hotel. The sun was setting, and we intended to catch the beautiful skies from the rooftop. We had our first meal there on our first night in Phnom Penh, and we loved the view from the rooftop restaurant. We knew we had to come back for another meal during dusk to catch the awesome views. As we were planning to have a later dinner afterwards, we decided on a light pre-dinner meal. Not wanting to fill our tummies up, we ordered a fruit platter and guacamole chips. By this time, you should already be aware of our drinking habits. You will roughly know what we are going to drink with each meal. And so, we ordered a hot Americano and a passionfruit juice to go with the food.
While we waited for the food to arrive, I wandered around the rooftop to take pictures of the city. The city had the most gorgeous sunset that day, and I could not stop taking pictures. Phnom Penh looked so beautiful, and the orange glow hitting the buildings just made it light up in such a special way. Phnom Penh, what a beauty.
We found out that Cambodia’s Independence Day is 9 November each year, and there would be celebrations every year on this date. We were thus hoping that there might be fireworks along Sisowath Quay, as it is the city’s most happening spot. As the sun set, we waited patiently while the skies turned darker by the minute. Finally, we heard the unmistakable sounds of gunpowder and loud noises. I admittedly ran to the other side of the rooftop to try to get a glimpse of the fireworks. The hotel staff were so lovely, as they opened a door that led us to an unblocked view of the fireworks. It was amazing. We spent the next 15 minutes in awe of the fireworks, taking pictures and videos of the spectacle, before it came to a stop. By the time we headed back to the table, we realised we were the only ones left. I guess we are just passionate about fireworks!
Pampered at The Spa by KhmerTonics
A 90-minute massage and luxury spa experience at TRIBE Phnom Penh Post Office Square
After settling the payment for our light pre-dinner, it was time for our next adventure. Located within the grounds of TRIBE Phnom Penh Post Office Square is The Spa by KhmerTonics. It offers various massage treatments, and a check on Google showed raving reviews. As guests of TRIBE Phnom Penh Post Office Square, we were entitled to a complimentary 30-minute massage on top of any massage treatment we chose. In the end, we opted for a 60-minute body massage, thus resulting in a 90-minute session for each of us! The entire spa felt very posh, and we were pampered throughout the session. We were first brought to change into their clothes, before being led to a private room for the massage session. A couple room was provided, and we had complete privacy. Honestly, the 90 minutes flew by and I felt it was too short, as I believed I dozed off for some time there, such was the skill of the masseuse! We had a great time at The Spa by KhmerTonics, and we enjoyed chatting with the staff there, who shared with us her working experience at the spa.
Name of spa: The Spa by Khmer Tonics
Google Maps: The Spa by Khmer Tonics
Website: https://www.khmertonics.com/
Instagram: @khmertonics_spa
Opening hours: 10 am to 10 pm daily
Spontaneous Dinner at La Croisette Along the Tonle Sap
Beef Lok Lak, Khmer shrimp salad, and mango sticky rice with a riverside breeze
After such a relaxing time feeding our souls, it was time to feed our stomachs. Leaving the spa half awake, we booked a Grab TukTuk to Sisowath Quay and decided on a random restaurant. Sometimes, it is good not to plan too much and just let the randomness of it all determine your next course. In the end, the TukTuk brought us to La Croissette, a restaurant we came across just the previous day. It was getting quite late, and this restaurant was still open, so we decided to give it a try.
We ordered the beef Loc Lac, Char G’dao, a chicken dish, and a Khmer Shrimp Papaya Salad. We shared the three dishes, and we also got a fresh coconut and iced tea to cool our bodies. After drinking so many cups of coffee that day, I knew better than to push my limits! The food was good and we enjoyed it. The food tasted fresh, and we especially enjoyed the shrimp papaya salad. It was also great that this restaurant faces the Tonle Sap River. We enjoyed the natural sea breeze while eating our late dinner. Since it was our final night in Phnom Penh, we deserved a sweet ending. We ordered a mango sticky rice to end the night perfectly. It came with a scoop of ice cream and was another delicious treat. We found ourselves using the word “delicious” so many times during this trip, and it is true. The food was mostly delicious and very tasty!
One cool thing about La Croisette is the different types of cuisines it serves. It serves various western dishes, from your typical western breakfasts to other dishes like steaks and Fish and Chips. It also serves authentic Khmer dishes to complement those Western items. As if that is not enough, they have an ice cream bar that is open throughout the day. If you are feeling too warm, the first floor is fully air-conditioned. However, if you want to have a nice view of the Tonle Sap River, head to the second floor for al fresco dining. They have everything! La Croisette has been open for business since 1997, so they are here to stay. We suggest heading here at least once if you want to have a relaxing time by the riverside.
We were so tired after our late dinner that we wanted to head back to the hotel. It was our final night before leaving for home the next day, and I thought we enjoyed the day a lot. It was a worthy day packed full of activities!
Name of eatery: La Croisette
Google Maps: La Croisette
Website: http://lacroisettekh.com/
Opening hours: 8 am to 12 am daily
🗓️ Day 11 (10 November 2024): Farewell Cambodia — One Last Meal, A Smooth Exit & A Touchdown at Midnight
A Light Hotel Breakfast to Start the Final Day
Sandwiches, chips, and coffee at TRIBE Express before a farewell feast
Our final day in Phnom Penh has arrived. As usual, we woke up quite late, and thankfully, we had already secured the late check-out timing when we arrived on the first day. We already decided to go back to Romdeng Restaurant for our final meal in Cambodia before heading to the airport. Hence, we wanted to grab something light in the hotel first.
We went back to the 4th floor’s TRIBE Express to grab a quick bite. We shared a sandwich and got ourselves an Americano each. Nothing like a clean black coffee to start the day right. The sandwich came with complimentary chips, which added to the tastiness of our meal. We were still half awake by this time, and it was good to be able to eat something in the comfort of our hotel.
Packing Up and Saying Goodbye to TRIBE Phnom Penh
Late check-out, bursting suitcases, and one last look at our cosy stay
After returning to our room to laze for a while more, it was time to pack up! We had been travelling for 11 days and our luggage was bursting! Thankfully, we expertly packed everything so it could all fit inside. Packing completed, it was time to shower. And then, it was time for our final meal in the city!
Last Meal at Romdeng: A Flavourful Cambodian Finale
Fish Amok, grilled chicken, Vietnamese sour soup, and the bold grilled Prahok
After checking out, we dropped our luggage at the check-in counters before taking a Tuk Tuk to Romdeng Restaurant. It was in the afternoon, so the restaurant was still relatively quiet. That was good news, as we will probably have our food arrive faster. This time, we decided on a few more dishes. Of course, we had to have the Fish Amok again. That is always first at any meal in Cambodia. Next, we ordered the grilled chicken again because we enjoyed it so much the first time we were here. We then got a deep-fried fish, a Vietnamese sour soup, and a signature Khmer dish, the grilled Prahok.
All the dishes were delicious and similar to our first experience; the whole dining experience felt like a home-cooked meal. It was authentic and delicious, and we somehow felt at home here. The new dishes we tried were spot on. The fish was fresh and tasty. That it was deep-fried made it even more delicious. The Vietnamese sour soup was just so homely. Like most Asian societies, the soup is a staple food, and it is a good comfort dish. Finally, we arrived at the grilled Prahok. This is a unique dish to Cambodians, and to be frank, it is a dish that has an acquired taste. You either love it or hate it. There is no in between. So what is Prahok? It is made from salted fermented fish and is basically a paste. It acts as a condiment or a sauce and goes well with other dishes. If you dare, though, it can be considered a treat on its own. Vietnamese should love this dish, and Vietnamese cuisine also uses fish paste quite a lot as a condiment. My partner, who is Vietnamese, enjoyed this dish a lot. By the end of our meal, we were completely full. It was a nice way to end our journey across Vietnam and Cambodia.
Navigating Phnom Penh’s Traffic to Reach the Airport
Tips on timing your departure right—especially during peak hours
After our late lunch/early dinner, we took a Tuk Tuk back to the hotel to collect our luggage before heading to the airport via a Grab car. As expected, there was a massive traffic jam the entire way. If you are in Phnom Penh, make sure you leave ample time to head to the airport. It is definitely safer to be at the airport early than risk being late for your flight. You do not want to face the traffic jams again.
Pre-Flight Rituals at Phnom Penh International Airport
Starbucks sips, last-minute browsing, and spotting our Emirates Boeing 777
Thankfully, we arrived at the airport early, and check-in was a breeze. After that, it was time to head straight to the transit area. The airport was relatively quiet, and we figured our flight was probably one of the last flights of the evening. With some time to spare, we got a drink at Starbucks, which was another perfect way to end our trip, after enjoying the perfect meal earlier at Romdeng Restaurant. While there were others already at the gate waiting for boarding, we relaxed at Starbucks, sipping my Americano and her juice. Our Emirates Boeing 777 has arrived at the gate, but there was still some time before boarding. Phnom Penh International Airport has quite a few stores in the transit area, so you will not get bored. There is a bookstore as well, so you can always buy a book to catch up on some reading. For me, I have a huge backlog of books I have not read at home, so I am banned from buying more books.
Boarding Emirates EK349: A Smooth Takeoff into the Night
A glimpse of Business Class, and settling into our usual seats in Economy
Soon, it was time to board. We were one of the last few to board, as usual, because we do not really enjoy sitting on a stationary plane. And so, we slowly made our way to the back of the plane, which is also usually where we choose to be. We walked past the Business Class seats and managed to take a picture for our future reference. For those who might not be aware, Emirates operates different types of Business Class seats, so make sure you choose the best one if possible. The best one is generally on their A380s, but they have a new Business Class product on their refurbished Boeing 777s. If you are on board their older B777s, like the one we boarded, then the Business Class seats come in a 2-3-2 arrangement, quite different and much less private from their 1-2-1 arrangement in the refurbished B777s.
In-Flight Dinner Delight: Chicken Butter Curry & Mango Sago
No menu, no problem—delicious food all around on the final leg home
Back to our Economy Class seats. Soon, the plane took off, and it was generally quite an uneventful flight. Before long, the aircraft reached cruising altitude, and the flight attendants prepared to serve dinner. Dinner that evening was a chicken butter dish served with cumin rice and tempered curried lentils. It was very delicious and I wiped it out within minutes. On this flight, there were no alternative options, so everyone was served the same dish. Thankfully, the dish was yummy, so there were no complaints. Our meal also came with a bread roll with butter and a mango sago pudding. Overall, the food was on point. It was a great flight.
Live Sports at 30,000 Feet: United vs Leicester on ICE
Catching Garnacho’s 82nd-minute stunner as a perfect ending to our travels
What’s better than having a sumptuous meal on board a flight? Why, great entertainment of course! Emirates flights come with live sports matches, and our flight coincided with a Manchester United football match against Leicester City. It provided fantastic entertainment, and I was extremely thankful we obtained a great result to end our travels pleasantly. I was also grateful to have caught Garnacho’s stunner in the 82nd minute. Wow! Soon, Changi Airport was in sight, and the plane was preparing its final approach to touch down in Singapore. Approximately 12.30 am on 10 November 2024, our Emirates Boeing 777-300ER arrived at the gate of Changi Airport Terminal 1. Home Sweet Home.
Touchdown at Changi: Home Sweet Home After 11 Epic Days
The final descent, familiar autogates, and reflections on a Southeast Asian adventure well spent
After 11 days on the road, it was great to be back home. We thoroughly enjoyed our travels, and it was great to visit the various cities in Vietnam and Cambodia. Having said that, we started to feel a little homesick. It was great to have finally arrived home and see those autogates at the immigration area. It has been an absolute blast! Till next time then!
What’s Next?
Reflections on an 11-Day Southeast Asian Escape
After countless bowls of pho, café-hopping sessions, sunsets by the river, and a memorable six-flight journey across borders, our Vietnam and Cambodia trip comes to a gentle close. From the buzz of Hanoi to the beachside calm of Nha Trang, the familiar chaos of Saigon to the cultural charm of Phnom Penh, this slow-paced adventure was everything we needed and more.
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The 11-Day Vietnam and Cambodia Itinerary: Hanoi, Nha Trang, HCMC and Phnom Penh Series
Need a break from everything? Follow our 11-day journey through Hanoi, Nha Trang, Ho Chi Minh City, and Phnom Penh — where the only plan was to relax.
Jet lag? Not here. Our first 3 days in Hanoi were packed with Dreamliners, deep-fried pigeon, creamy egg coffee, and train tracks just inches away.
From pho to flan, beachside lounging to seafood feasting, Nha Trang served up sunshine (and a little rain), spa bliss, and a whole lot of food comas.
Part 4: 4 Days in Phnom Penh: Riverside Cafés, Massages & Affordable Luxury
What started with a passport panic turned into a Phnom Penh adventure filled with massages, mocktails, mango sticky rice, and a whole lot of Cambodian kindness.
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