4 Days in Hanoi: Food, Cafés & Lake Views | 11-Day Vietnam and Cambodia Itinerary (Part 2)
- Mario Ng
- Jul 31
- 25 min read
Updated: 10 minutes ago
🇻🇳Hanoi Highlights: The First Stop of Our 11-Day Vietnam and Cambodia Adventure
🗓️ Day 1: Changi to Hanoi — Two Flights, Pho, and a Dreamliner Touchdown
Check-In at Changi: A Surprise Transit Requirement
Unexpectedly, we had to recheck bags and clear immigration in Ho Chi Minh City
We arrived at Changi Airport around 11 am to check in and drop off our bags. During check-in, we discovered that for Vietnam Airlines with a domestic connection, we will be required to pass through immigration and enter Vietnam before dropping our bags at the check-in counters at the domestic terminal to proceed with our second flight. However, we would be given both air tickets at Changi Airport. This was unexpected, as I always thought the domestic terminal would be connected and that our bags would be automatically transferred to the second plane. The immigration clearance at Tan Son Nhat International Airport is infamous for having long queues, and I thought we were able to escape that with a domestic connection. Alas, it is what it is!
Terminal 3 Views and a Quick Bite at Pret A Manger
Catching sight of Singapore Airlines planes and trying a new airport favourite
Back to the positives, Vietnam Airlines is located at Terminal 3, so we were able to catch quite a few glimpses of those magnificent Singapore Airlines planes parked on the tarmac. Hungry, we headed to Pret A Manger for a quick bite. For some reason, I have never eaten here even though we fly from Terminal 3 quite often. My good friend mentioned that she loves Pret A Manger and would eat there whenever she flies. Hence, we decided to give this place a try. We got a couple of pastries and have coffee, along with a banana for fibre and healthy living. We enjoyed the coffee and thought it tasted great. It was a good recommendation, and we would certainly be here again the next time we are in Terminal 3.
Sprinting Through Changi — For No Reason at All
From relaxed coffee to a mad dash, only to find out the flight wasn’t even boarding yet
When you are enjoying yourself, time flies. It flies so fast that you are in danger of missing your flight. Once again, for some reason, I am always one of the last few to board the plane when flying. I apologise, but Changi Airport has that kind of attraction that makes you want to stay behind! Realising that we were late and perhaps even in danger of missing the boarding cut-off time, we first started slow jogging, before breaking into a run, before just outright sprinting to head to the gate. Of course, when you are late for a flight in a large airport, no less, the gate is always at the end of the terminal. Finally, we arrived at gate A17. Hilariously, no one was even boarding the flight yet. Everyone was seated, waiting for the airport staff to begin the boarding process. Amused, we passed through the security checks and took a seat to catch our breath. This is quite a fun start to our trip! Thankfully, the air conditioning was strong enough that we did not perspire.
In-Flight with Vietnam Airlines: Two Bananas and a Tasty Meal
A simple but satisfying journey to Ho Chi Minh City with a surprisingly good lunch
Boarding then began after a while, and before long, we were on our way to Ho Chi Minh City! Once we reached cruising altitude, the flight attendants soon got busy preparing to serve meals to famished passengers. We had an Asian meal consisting of fried rice, minced pork served with vegetables, along with a bun (served with butter) and a banana for a healthy treat. That was my second banana of the day, and I was definitely getting all the fibre I needed for the day. It was a delicious meal and we finished the dish in no time. The flight time was 2 hours and was quite uneventful. Even though we have been spoiled by Singapore Airlines with its individual entertainment system in each seat, we did not feel bored on this flight. It was only 2 hours, and the time passed quickly as we did some reading, cloud-watching, and eating. Before long, we touched down at Tan Son Nhat International Airport.
✈️ Leg 1, Flight 1: Singapore → Ho Chi Minh City
Date: 31 October 2024 ~ Airline: Vietnam Airlines ~ Flight No.: VN650 ~ Departure: 1:15 PM (Singapore Time) ~ Arrival: 2:30 PM (Ho Chi Minh City Time) ~ Duration: 2 hours 15 minutes
First Thing After Landing in Vietnam? A Hot Bowl of Pho
Post-immigration eats and quick check-in at Tan Son Nhat’s domestic terminal
What do you do when you first land in Vietnam? Have a bowl of pho, of course! After clearing the long immigration queue at the international terminal of Tan Son Nhat International Airport, we took a short, entirely sheltered walk to the domestic terminal. Once there, we headed to the check-in counters and dropped our bags before heading to the security screening counters to clear security. Thankfully, the queues at the domestic terminal always move fast, even though it is just as crowded. Once we were in, time to eat!
Food, Shopping & Plane-Spotting at the Domestic Terminal
Third meal of the day, a quick retail fix, and catching Dreamliners at golden hour
We ordered our bowls of pho, coffee, juice, and dessert, just because we are on vacation! It is only our third meal of the day. Full, we wandered around, bought a bag at the Nike store, and while she rested, I took the opportunity to do some plane-spotting. It was evening time, and the skies were just so beautiful. Before long, it was time to fly again, and we made our way to the Boeing 787 Dreamliner for our domestic flight to Hanoi.
Hanoi Bound on a Dreamliner — And a Dream Arrival for AVGeeks
Spacious seats, a remote stand, and walking on the tarmac under the night sky
The plane was obviously beautiful, and being a larger plane, the seats were also more comfortable. The flight was also about 2 hours, and this time, each seat came with its own entertainment system. It was perfect as the skies were turning dark, and there was no opportunity to check out the views outside. Food came in the form of a prepackaged sandwich, and it was delicious. Perhaps we were hungry. We soon touched down in Hanoi, and the AVGeek’s dream came true. The Dreamliner stopped and parked at a remote stand, which meant that we would be leaving the plane by stairs and walking on the tarmac. While some hate doing this and prefer walking in air-conditioned comfort directly to the terminal, I honestly choose this every time. How often does one get so up close to an aircraft and see the gigantic beauty in all its glory? I also always choose to leave by the rear exit because you can then see the tail and just be mesmerised by it. It just looks so stunning! As you walk across the tarmac to the bus waiting for you, take the opportunity to snap plenty of pictures of the plane, because who knows when you might have the chance to do so again? I know I did!
✈️ Leg 1, Flight 2: Ho Chi Minh City → Hanoi
Date: 31 October 2024 ~ Airline: Vietnam Airlines ~ Flight No.: VN252 ~ Departure: 4:40 PM ~ Arrival: 6:45 PM ~ Duration: 2 hours 5 minutes
Late Dinner at Tống Duy Tân: Sweet, Sour & Deep-Fried Pigeon
Our first Hanoi meal: Crisp skin, bold flavours, and no regrets
We headed straight to the hotel upon our arrival in Hanoi. After checking in and dropping our luggage, we went back out for a well-deserved late dinner. By the time we arrived at Cơm Đảo Gà Rang Chim Quay - Tống Duy Tân, it was almost 10 pm local time. We dug in. We ordered a local dinner comprising a sweet & sour soup, stir-fried pickled vegetables with beef, plain fried rice, and the star of the eatery, the deep-fried pigeon. I had eaten pigeon before during my travels to Vietnam, and I always enjoyed the taste. This time, it was no different. I loved it. The meat is darker than chicken, much like duck meat, and honestly speaking, I could not tell the difference. All I knew was that I enjoyed the dish. Also, being a relatively small bird, one pigeon was a perfect portion for two people. Famished, we finished our dinner in 15 minutes.
Name of eatery: Cơm Đảo Gà Rang Chim Quay - Tống Duy Tân
🗺️ Google Maps: Cơm Đảo Gà Rang Chim Quay - Tống Duy Tân
Opening hours: 24 hours daily
A Night Walk at Hanoi Train Street
No train this time, just quiet tracks and the promise of a return
Time for a stroll. We headed to the nearby train tracks, which is home to the famous Hanoi Train Street. At that time, the train was not yet arriving, so visitors could roam around the tracks and take photos. Being really exhausted from being on the road the entire day, we roamed around for a little while before calling it a day. We will be back to properly explore Hanoi Train Street!
🗓️ Day 2: Egg Coffee, Sunset by the Lake, and a Train Rushing Past Your Face
Brunch at Bánh Cuốn Gia Truyền: Hanoi’s Best Rice Rolls
Soft, savory, and made-to-order — this humble dish never disappoints
Rise and shine! One of the perks of staying at Pan Pacific Hanoi is the beautiful view of West Lake facing you. This is the view you get when you wake up first thing in the morning. It is for sure one of the better hotels in Hanoi that comes with an awesome view.
Having woken up late, it was time for brunch. We took a Grab and headed to Bánh cuốn gia truyền to enjoy a simple local dish of Bánh Cuốn. It comes with different types of fillings, and we got two types: one with chopped mushrooms and the second one with an egg. Generous servings of fried shallots were sprinkled over the bánh cuốn, just to give you that extra crunch. We also ordered some meats to go with the banh cuon, and vegetables are always complimentary, and healthy! We used the sauce from the meat, drizzled some over the bánh cuốn, and ate it. If you prefer, you could also just eat the bánh cuốn on its own. Either way, it was delicious.
One great thing about having bánh cuốn, at least in Vietnam, is that the dish is always made fresh. Whenever there is an order, the chef will make a fresh serving. It is essentially made-to-order. This is one great thing I love about Vietnam. Many dishes are made fresh and are generally healthy. You can actually eat good and tasty food and lose weight here.
Name of eatery: Bánh cuốn gia truyền
🗺️ Google Maps: Bánh cuốn gia truyền
Opening hours: 6 am to 11 pm daily
Egg Coffee at Cafe Giảng: A Must-Try Hanoi Classic
Thick, creamy, and iconic — here’s where we get our caffeine (and sugar) fix
After brunch was settled, it was time for coffee. First-time visitors to Hanoi must try their famous egg coffee. Having originated during the Vietnam War out of necessity, it became a local and tourist favourite after the war ended.
It was said that Cafe Giảng was the original store that came up with the egg coffee, although there are also other stories suggesting otherwise. Now, almost every cafe and restaurant in Hanoi serves egg coffee. I usually try to make a trip to Cafe Giảng whenever I am in Hanoi because I like the taste there the best. Of course, some might beg to differ. My suggestion: try as many as you can!
Cafe Giảng is usually crowded, and our visit was no different. Thankfully, we managed to find a small table with a couple of seats. We quickly made our order and patiently waited. Before long, our drinks were here. What makes egg coffee unique is how thick and creamy the drink is. The hot version comes served on a plate of hot water to help keep the drink hot. Some might take sip by sip to savour the drink, while others might be tempted to gulp it all down. I am somewhat in between. My heart tells me to gulp it down while my brain says I should try to savour it so as to prolong the enjoyment. In the end, it took me 5 minutes to savour it. There is just a slight taste of egg in the coffee, but you do not really notice it once you drink it, as the coffee takes over. The sweetness of the drink also covers up the egg, and before you know it, the drink is finished. After coming for our drinks, we left satisfied!
Name of eatery: Cafe Giảng
🗺️ Google Maps: Cafe Giảng
Website: https://cafegiang.vn/
Instagram: @cafegiang
Opening hours: 7 am to 10 pm daily
Exploring Hoan Kiem Lake and Trang Tien Plaza
A scenic stroll, souvenir shopping, and a cool café stop with lake views
Next, time to head to Hoan Kiem Lake. The city centre is located around a small lake, and it is usually bustling with activities here. During the festive periods, concerts are held here, and the atmosphere is really fantastic. We took the opportunity to snap some pictures, and we could see many people, locals and tourists alike, taking plenty of pictures to keep as memories of their time in Hanoi.
As it was in the afternoon, we struggled after a little while to stay dry. We made our way to the nearby shopping mall, Trang Tien Plaza, to take a breather before making our way to do some shopping. Uniqlo is located beside Hoan Kiem Lake, and is the perfect location for tourists to shop. During our time there, we indeed saw many tourists doing lots of shopping. Be sure to grab some Vietnam-exclusive tees that cannot be found elsewhere! I know I bought quite a few T-shirts here. After that, we went to their in-house cafe for a cup of coffee. I am a typical tourist who just enjoys doing touristy things when on a holiday! The coffee was decent enough, and we took a nice air-conditioned break while looking out towards Hoan Kiem Lake.
Name of store: Uniqlo Hoan Kiem
🗺️ Google Maps: UNIQLO
Opening hours: 10 am to 10 pm daily
Sunset Snacks and People-Watching by the Lake
Fruit juice, coconut, and ice cream — the simple pleasures of travel
After we were done, we strolled back towards the lake, and what do you know, we saw a cafe facing the lake. It was around 5 pm, and the sun was slowly setting. What better time than to enjoy a snack while people-watching from the comfort of our own chairs? We ordered a fruit juice for her, fresh coconut for me, and an ice cream sundae. Once again, make sure you do touristy things when being a tourist! We relaxed, chatted about life, people-watched, and took plenty of pictures of the lake. It has been so long since we were this relaxed. It was definitely a restful experience. We slowly strolled around the lake, and as the sky changed colours, we took the opportunity to capture the area from different vantage points. Before we knew it, it was almost 7 pm. Time for dinner!
Name of eatery: Conifer Bốn Mùa - Four Seasons
🗺️ Google Maps: Conifer Bốn Mùa - Four Seasons
Opening hours: 7 am to 11 pm daily
Dinner at Bò Nướng Cúc Phương: DIY Barbecue, Done Right
Fresh meats, sizzling plates, and a sweet baguette that stole the show
Dinner tonight comprises a barbecue where you cook your own meat. They have a menu where you can choose different types of meat, organs, and vegetables. Each table is provided with oil, so you will not burn your food. We found out the hard way when our hot plate had too little oil. We were actually chided by our neighbours that the smoke was reaching them, but I did not realise it until afterwards, as I do not know Vietnamese. It was quite funny though, as I remembered smiling at them throughout. They probably know I am not Vietnamese. Thankfully, the store owner came and changed our aluminium foil, so all was good after a very short while! What makes a barbecue great? Probably the food must be fresh. This store is just the place to be for a delicious barbecue. We had different types of meat, but I distinctly remember that the pork liver was very fresh. Perhaps it was because this is the easiest type of food to tell if it is fresh, and we could taste the freshness. The vegetables looked bright, crunchy, and very fresh. We added the oil, and it was mixed with all the food cooking within the pan. Before long, you are eating vegetables and meat alike. It was a very enjoyable experience. The unique point about this store is the flattened sweet baguette that seemingly stood out of place in this barbecue store. However, it is in fact one of the highlights of dinner. In between bites of the meat, I ate the baguette and boy, it was so good. Somehow, it works. I do not know how, but I only know I will be there again to have a meal. This was a great dinner!
Name of eatery: Bò nướng Cúc Phương - 45 Hàng Đậu
🗺️ Google Maps: Bò nướng Cúc Phương - 45 Hàng Đậu
Opening hours: 4.30 pm to 11 pm daily
Train Street Thrills: Watching Trains from Le Family Cafe
Close encounters from the front row, followed by a safer second round upstairs
As we only spent a short time at Hanoi Train Street the previous night, we wanted to spend more time here tonight to catch a glimpse of the passing train. We went to nhà Lê, a café that has front-row seats to the train tracks, as well as second-level seating that is slightly more comfortable if you prefer a safer view. We first chose the front-row seats and, oh my goodness! It was truly very close, and I definitely felt, not like danger, but danger itself. Woah! It was quite exhilarating, but as they say, once is enough. After the train passed, business went back to usual, and all the tourists started walking on the tracks again. Before long, someone blew a whistle again, which means that a train is coming, and everyone has to clear the tracks. We made our way to the second floor to feel safe, and it was just as exciting, minus the heart-stopping feeling we felt the first time. It was equally close, of course, except that we were above the train this time, and it was generally safer. The cafe was vibrating, though, so you might want to hold onto something if you are on the second floor.
We ordered kumquat tea with honey, and it was delicious. We had a very heavy dinner, so it was perfect to have such a thirst-quenching drink in the humid evening. For those who prefer to spend more time at the cafe, the cafe has an extensive menu. Besides tea, they have Vietnamese coffee, chocolate, juices, smoothies, soda, yoghurt, and various alcoholic beverages. They also have a few typical Vietnamese dishes, so you might want to try them. They offer a variety of fried rice, noodles, spring rolls, and pho. They also sell different finger food if you prefer to hang out here with a beer in hand. While there are many cafes littered along the street, we liked this cafe and enjoyed ourselves here.
Name of cafe: Le Family
🗺️ Google Maps: Le Family
Instagram: @nhale.trainstreet
Opening hours: 8 am to 10.30 pm daily
After encountering two trains, we made our way out of the cafe and strolled along the train tracks to check out the colourful sights around the tracks. There are plenty of cafes and eateries, and one has plenty of choices if he is ever thirsty or hungry. Soon, we heard the whistle again, and thankfully, there is an area that has just that much more space. We felt peace this time, and we were able to take pictures of the train while feeling relaxed. Not so exciting this time, but definitely much safer. By this time, it was already 11 pm, and so it was time to head back for the night. It was time to rest to prepare ourselves for another day of food and enjoyment!
🗓️ Day 3: Shrimp Paste, Cathedrals, and a Spa Day to Remember
Brunch at Bún Đậu Mắm Tôm Cô Hoa: Funky, Flavorful, and So Very Vietnamese
Trying Hanoi’s most divisive dish — shrimp paste and all!
After having an extended rest at the hotel the previous night, we woke up later than usual, just in time for brunch. We made our way towards the Old Quarter, where we enjoyed a dish of Bún Đậu Mắm Tôm. This is a local delicacy that is enjoyed by many locals, both Hanoians and Vietnamese alike. We indulged in the different types of meat, deep-fried tofu, which you dipped in the fish sauce. For the more adventurous, the correct way to eat it is to dip it in a shrimp paste sauce. Think of it as Vietnam’s blue cheese or durians. It is an acquired taste, but you should definitely try it at least once. You will never know unless you try!
Name of eatery: Bún Đậu Mắm Tôm Cô Hoa 25 Ấu Triệu
🗺️ Google Maps: Bún Đậu Mắm Tôm Cô Hoa 25 Ấu Triệu
Opening hours: 6.30 am to 10 pm (Mondays to Saturdays); 7 am to 10 pm (Sundays)
St. Joseph’s Cathedral & Snapshots in the Old Quarter
Classic architecture, tourist photos, and street-side surprises
After a delicious brunch, we strolled towards Hoan Kiem Lake, where we visited St. Joseph’s Cathedral. As expected, many tourists were there taking selfies and wefies with the cathedral. Even though it was crowded, it was not difficult to find a spot with an ideal angle for your touristy shots. Just as we had completed it, we chanced upon a few street vendors selling Cốm Hanoi, or green sticky rice, a local snack. It is something that can be enjoyed on its own. Alternatively, you can always have it with a cup of coffee or tea. Which was precisely what we did. We found a nice cafe just beside the cathedral, Giao Mua Coffee, and made our way to the second floor. There, we relaxed in air-conditioned comfort while taking more pictures of the cathedral. The decor of the cafe was unique and reminded us of an old bookshop, and the cafe indeed has quite a collection of comic books. If you are into comics and understand Vietnamese, you are in for a treat.
Note: The cafe has since shifted to a new location. The new location is as follows!
Name of Cafe: Giao Mua Coffee
🗺️ Google Maps (new location): Giao Mua coffee
Instagram: @vuongiaomua
Opening hours: 7.30 am to 10 pm daily
Spa Time at Minerva Church Hotel: One Hour of Pure Bliss
A foot massage that nearly knocked us out — in the best way possible
It was time to take a breather after all that eating and walking, and so we made our way to the Minerva Church Hotel, just 50 metres from the real cathedral. Located within the hotel is a spa, which offers us a chance to loosen those tightly wound knots. And so we did! It was an hour of pure bliss, during which we almost dozed off. It was very enjoyable and we would definitely be back again here the next time we are in Hanoi. Relaxation completed, it was time to hunt for coffee.
Name: Metis Spa (within Minerva Church Hotel)
🗺️ Google Maps: Metis Spa
Opening hours: 10 am to 11 pm daily
Cafe Dinh vs. Cafe Giảng: The Egg Coffee Rivalry Continues
Same family, different flavours — which sibling café gets our vote?
I read online that Cafe Dinh is supposedly related to Cafe Giảng, where we first had egg coffee the previous day. Apparently, the owner of Cafe Dinh is a sibling of Cafe Giảng, and there is some sort of rivalry between the two establishments. Of course, this gives us an opportunity to try out this cafe’s version of the egg coffee. Located right by Hoan Kiem Lake, Cafe Dinh's location is arguably much better. When we arrived, there were plenty of seats available and the air conditioning was a welcome sight. My partner had just about had enough of egg coffee, so she ordered a soda, and I enjoyed the OG drink. This version simply came in a coffee cup without a dish with hot water to keep the temperature hot. I tried my best to savour it slowly, but as expected, it was finished in less than 5 minutes. This version had more egg flavour, which you either love or hot, and the coffee is not as intense. This meant that you will be able to taste the egg more distinctly. Overall, it was a nice cup of egg coffee. Personally, I prefer Cafe Giảng’s version as it somehow packs more punch, and the flavours create a melody when you drink it all in. If you prefer a calmer drink that is more subdued, Cafe Dinh should be your choice.
Name of cafe: Cafe Dinh
🗺️ Google Maps: Cafe Dinh
Opening hours: 7 am to 10 pm daily
Wash, Rinse, Bliss: Hair Spa at LVT Hair Salon & Spa
Yes, a shampoo session can be life-changing (and float-inducing)
As we relaxed, the sun was slowly setting, and it was already 5 pm. We strolled along the streets of Hanoi and made our way to a hair salon. As if we were not relaxed enough, we decided to wash our hair at LVT Hair Salon & Spa. If you are ever vexed or simply feel frustrated, we highly recommend a hair wash in Vietnam. Over here, they treat you right and wash your hair with nice-smelling shampoo, give you a neck and head massage, before drying your hair and sending you off for more adventures. We had no idea we could relax even more, and by the time we were done with our hair, we felt almost like we were floating. I momentarily forgot how to book a Grab ride after we stepped out of the hair salon. It was that good.
Name of hair salon: LVT Hair Salon & Spa
🗺️ Google Maps: LVT - Hair Salon & Spa
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/LVT51A/
Opening hours: 8.30 am to 9 pm daily
Dinner at Bún Ngan Hàng Thiếc Dũng Huyền: Garlic Duck Heaven
Crispy, tender, and packed with flavour — this duck dish was worth the wait
And so, it was time for our well-deserved dinner. We took a short Grab ride to Bún Ngan Hàng Thiếc Dũng Huyền, a place that sells local favourite Ngan cháy tỏi, or crispy garlic duck. There was a long queue, but as there were only two of us, it was not too difficult to find a spot. Over here, it is all low chairs and tables, so make sure you are ready for it. Space is a premium as well, so get used to cosy quarters. Of course, the food is the highlight of this eatery, and we loved the vermicelli, soup, and duck. The crispy garlic duck meat was freshly deep-fried, while the steamed version perfectly balanced out the sweet taste of the crispy version. The vermicelli was a good and light carbohydrate to fill your tummy, while the hot bowl of soup was the perfect way to wash it all down. This is not the place to eat and linger, but rather, eat and leave, as there are loads of people waiting to eat. Hence, we quickly left after feeling satisfied having a great meal.
Name of eatery: Bún Ngan Hàng Thiếc Dũng Huyền
🗺️ Google Maps: Bún Ngan Hàng Thiếc Dũng Huyền
Opening hours: 7 am to 10 pm daily
Late-Night Stroll, Street Fruit & A Sweet Stop at Häagen-Dazs
Beating the crowds with cold dessert, coffee, and a perfect lakefront view
We strolled back towards Hoan Kiem Lake, almost like on autopilot, and boy, was it crowded. It was a Saturday night after all, so it should not have been a surprise to us. There were many street vendors selling all sorts of snacks, and we found one selling fruits. Prices are affordable, so you can just choose one and get your daily fibre intake. To escape the crowd, we tried to find a place with less foot traffic, and we headed to Häagen-Dazs. We promise it was not on purpose, but when you are in an ice-cream store, you have no choice but to order some ice cream. The store was actually quite packed and but thankfully, the staff was able to help us find seats. It also helped that many people queuing at the counter were buying to go. Within a short time, the staff found two seats for us on the second floor. I got a brownie-ice cream mixture, and to balance the sweetness, we got a hot Americano and an iced latte. You cannot go wrong with Häagen-Dazs, and it was a good dessert stop after dinner.
Name of restaurant: Häagen-Dazs
🗺️ Google Maps: Häagen-Dazs
Opening hours: 9 am to 10 pm daily
Even though it was already 10.30 pm, Hoan Kiem Lake was still packed with people, albeit less compared to an hour ago. We had a nice stroll around the lake to burn off the thousands of calories we consumed that day, before calling it a night. As the area was packed and the demand for Grab rides was much higher than the supply, we relied on the taxis waiting around the lake. After doing a quick check on the price quoted in the Grab app, we agreed on a price with the taxi and off we went to the hotel. Today was a great day!
🗓️ Day 4: One Last Pho and a Beatles-Themed Cafe Before We Say Goodbye
Breakfast at Phở Khôi Hói: The Best Bowl of Phở in Hanoi?
A rich broth, tender beef, and the magic of dipping fried dough fritters
Today was our last day in Hanoi, and there was no time to waste. We woke up earlier than usual today, and we immediately headed for breakfast. Phở is the order of the day, and we made our way to Phở Khôi Hói, a popular Phở store in Hanoi. For those who love Vietnamese food, you will know that Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City differ in their styles of preparing Phở. Southern-style pho is more flavourful, while the good folks of Hanoi prefer to keep things simple. Personally, I love both styles, but I just like Hanoi’s version a little more. At around 10 am, the store was packed with people. It was not easy to find a place. We had to simply wait outside the store until people left the eatery. Thankfully, we managed to find two seats shortly. We ordered immediately and ordered Phở dặc biệt, which translates to special pho, which essentially means you want the luxurious version, which has all the ingredients you can think of. We wanted the fried dough fritters but were told they were sold out. It was that popular. After waiting for twenty minutes, our order finally arrived. Just then, my partner saw that a new batch of dough fritters had arrived at the store. She quickly called the staff to make an order, and thankfully, one portion came immediately.
The broth was just sublime. Looks can be deceiving, and make sure you do not let the colour of the phở fool you. It was incredibly rich, and I found myself slurping the broth nonstop. I had to remember to enjoy the rice noodles and meat as well. The ingredients were all so fresh, and it made a world of difference. The phở was truly so good, but the best was yet to come. I soaked the fried dough fritter in the broth, and it was mindblowing. Somehow, the fried dough fritter was able to soak up the sweetness of the broth, and what took place was a perfect harmony of sweetness and savoury. I admittedly had the lion’s share of the fried dough fritters, and if not for the limited space of my tummy, I would definitely order one more portion of phở and fried dough fritters to enjoy. This is the best phở eatery I have enjoyed so far in Hanoi. Make sure you head here for a bowl of phở!
Name of eatery: Phở Khôi Hói
🗺️ Google Maps: Phở Khôi Hói
Opening hours: 6 am to 9 pm daily
Final Coffee Stop at Tranquil Books & Coffee
Beatles posters, award-winning brews, and the perfect farewell cup
After such a sumptuous meal, it was time for a good cup of coffee before leaving the city. Since all we had been having were Vietnamese coffee the past few days, I figured it was time to visit a nice cafe to have a cup of Americano. We made our way to Tranquil Books & Coffee, a nice, small cafe I first discovered the previous time I was in Hanoi. Back in the city this time with my partner, I had to bring her here. I love the ambience here as the owners seem to have great taste in music. On the walls are posters and various vinyl records of The Beatles, which is only the greatest band in modern history. In case you think this is just another cafe that happens to play good music, you are wrong. Proudly displayed on the wall are the certificates for first and third prize in a coffee brew-off competition they participated in 2024. If you are feeling slightly peckish, the cafe serves food as well. Besides croissants and pain au chocolats, they also offer more substantial options like waffles, sandwiches, curries, shakshuka, and some finger food. We were satisfied with just an iced Vietnamese coffee and a hot cup of Americano for me. We were able to just relax, enjoy some good music, sip some coffee, and chat away. It was nice that there were not many people here as it is quite a small cafe, but perhaps the younger crowd do not appreciate The Beatles.
Alas, after finishing our coffee, it was time to go. Hanoi has been great to us, and we were sad that our time in this beautiful city had come to an end. Every time we come to Hanoi, we always feel we did not spend enough time here. The past couple of times we were here, we were either here only for a few days or was just a detour before heading to Sapa. This time, having spent arguably what amounted to 2.5 ‘usable’ days, it was definitely too short. We know we will be back!
Name of eatery: Tranquil Books & Coffee - 5 Nguyễn Quang Bích
🗺️ Google Maps: Tranquil Books & Coffee - 5 Nguyễn Quang Bích
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/cafetranquil/
Instagram: @tranquilbookscoffee
Opening hours: 8 am to 10 pm daily
What’s Next?
Sun, Sea & Seafood in Nha Trang
After the buzz of Hanoi, we headed south to unwind on Vietnam’s stunning coast. Think beachside hotels, sunset strolls, fresh seafood, and total relaxation.
👉 Coming up in Part 3:
Ready for a change of pace? Follow us to Nha Trang where it is all about lazy mornings, sea views, and unforgettable local dishes. Discover where we stayed, what we ate, and how we embraced the slower side of Vietnam.
The 11-Day Vietnam and Cambodia Itinerary: Hanoi, Nha Trang, Ho Chi Minh City & Phnom Penh Series
Need a break from everything? Follow our 11-day journey through Hanoi, Nha Trang, Ho Chi Minh City, and Phnom Penh — where the only plan was to relax.
Part 2: 4 Days in Hanoi: Food, Cafés & Lake Views
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From pho to flan, beachside lounging to seafood feasting, Nha Trang served up sunshine (and a little rain), spa bliss, and a whole lot of food comas.
What started with a passport panic turned into a Phnom Penh adventure filled with massages, mocktails, mango sticky rice, and a whole lot of Cambodian kindness.
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